Climbing Hogback Mountain
If you look at Banner County Nebraska on a highway map, you see mostly white space. It has one "metropolitan area," the unincorporated hamlet of Harrisburg, home to 100 or so lost or hardy (or both) souls. Another few hundred people are apparently tucked away in its hinterlands, about one person per square mile. State Highway 71 runs north-south through it, with State Highway88 jutting eastward from it, and another dead-end highway jutting west a bit further down.. A few county and rural roads seem to snake around and die out. Pumpkin Creek is its only significant waterway, cutting across the lower half of the county, and flowing into the North Platte River.
A topographical map is livelier, showing a lot of varying elevations. Google photos and aerial views are even more interesting -- or boring, depending on one's point of view -- showing endless grasslands sometimes cut by small canyons and buttes edged and topped by pine trees, etched by cattle trails, and spotted with windmills and the occasional ranch house and outbuildings. Some of those buttes are good-sized, rising to the title of "mountain," as in Wildcat and Hogback.
I visited Banner County a couple times when I worked as "the" reporter for the Gering (Nebraska) Courier. I went to Harrisburg once, for a reason I no longer recall, but I do remember a winter trip up into the rugged ranch country. Seems that one of the big-time morning TV programs -- Good Morning America comes to mind -- was doing a story on miniature horses or mules on one of the ranches, and I went to cover the coverage. I remember a long drive on winding narrow roads. The TV folks never showed, but while waiting I got into a long conversation with the young wife of the rancher. She and her husband had met at college, and she had come from urban New York to live with him on the family ranch. She said she loved being there, and told me a story of how one summer day she'd been weeding her garden when she came face-to-face with a large rattlesnake, had jumped up and run into the house.
Funny how I never thought to write up that story -- instead I drove back empty-handed.
But back to Hogback Mountain. While living in Gering, and in Bridgeport before that, I spent several pleasant days and afternoons wandering the canyons and buttes, climbing Courthouse and Chimney Rocks, as well as Scotts Bluff and Mitchell Dome. I, too, found a rattlesnake once, a big one, just at the edge of Courthouse Rock. I'd never heard one before, but the sound was unmistakably sinister; I kept a respectable distance and let him go back to his own business, then went on my own way. At some point I heard that Hogback was the highest point in Nebraska, and I thought it might make for an interesting afternoon, a half-hour drive and a couple hours of rambling.
Life, though, intervened, and, in one of those choices one makes so easily and perhaps so wrongly, I decided I needed to grow up and go back East, back to Omaha and a respectable job. As I was preparing to leave, I mentioned to a friend, Jim. that my biggest regret was that I never climbed Hogback. "Maybe," he said, "it makes a better story if you never do." I thought he might be right.
Now, nearly 40 years on, I know better. I've been searching out Hogback on-line, studying photos and maps, with the sort of passion that more sane people would probably reserve for seeking out old lovers. I know now that a big part of my soul is out there in the sage and sand and barren rocks of that part of Nebraska, and I feel, with a longing as deep as any I have known, a desire to go there once again.
I've never been one to keep a bucket list, but I now have a list of one -- I want to climb Hogback before I die. And if God looks out for fools, I'm hoping He will look out one last time for me, and help me find my way out there.
That is my prayer.
A topographical map is livelier, showing a lot of varying elevations. Google photos and aerial views are even more interesting -- or boring, depending on one's point of view -- showing endless grasslands sometimes cut by small canyons and buttes edged and topped by pine trees, etched by cattle trails, and spotted with windmills and the occasional ranch house and outbuildings. Some of those buttes are good-sized, rising to the title of "mountain," as in Wildcat and Hogback.
I visited Banner County a couple times when I worked as "the" reporter for the Gering (Nebraska) Courier. I went to Harrisburg once, for a reason I no longer recall, but I do remember a winter trip up into the rugged ranch country. Seems that one of the big-time morning TV programs -- Good Morning America comes to mind -- was doing a story on miniature horses or mules on one of the ranches, and I went to cover the coverage. I remember a long drive on winding narrow roads. The TV folks never showed, but while waiting I got into a long conversation with the young wife of the rancher. She and her husband had met at college, and she had come from urban New York to live with him on the family ranch. She said she loved being there, and told me a story of how one summer day she'd been weeding her garden when she came face-to-face with a large rattlesnake, had jumped up and run into the house.
Funny how I never thought to write up that story -- instead I drove back empty-handed.
But back to Hogback Mountain. While living in Gering, and in Bridgeport before that, I spent several pleasant days and afternoons wandering the canyons and buttes, climbing Courthouse and Chimney Rocks, as well as Scotts Bluff and Mitchell Dome. I, too, found a rattlesnake once, a big one, just at the edge of Courthouse Rock. I'd never heard one before, but the sound was unmistakably sinister; I kept a respectable distance and let him go back to his own business, then went on my own way. At some point I heard that Hogback was the highest point in Nebraska, and I thought it might make for an interesting afternoon, a half-hour drive and a couple hours of rambling.
Life, though, intervened, and, in one of those choices one makes so easily and perhaps so wrongly, I decided I needed to grow up and go back East, back to Omaha and a respectable job. As I was preparing to leave, I mentioned to a friend, Jim. that my biggest regret was that I never climbed Hogback. "Maybe," he said, "it makes a better story if you never do." I thought he might be right.
Now, nearly 40 years on, I know better. I've been searching out Hogback on-line, studying photos and maps, with the sort of passion that more sane people would probably reserve for seeking out old lovers. I know now that a big part of my soul is out there in the sage and sand and barren rocks of that part of Nebraska, and I feel, with a longing as deep as any I have known, a desire to go there once again.
I've never been one to keep a bucket list, but I now have a list of one -- I want to climb Hogback before I die. And if God looks out for fools, I'm hoping He will look out one last time for me, and help me find my way out there.
That is my prayer.

